GIARDINI
NAXOS
Giardini
Naxos is a well-famous seaside resort on the landward side of the
lungomare, a long road running alongside the shore from Capo Schisò
north-west to Taormina. For a long time, the “garden town”
merely served as a sheltered anchorage for nearby Taormina. The
epithet originates from the cotton and sugar-cane plantations which,
through the centuries, were replaced by citrus orchards. This for
a longtime provided the best source of income until, in the 1950s,
the place developed into an important holiday resort, thanks partly
to the attraction of nearby Taormina, which provides a splendid
backdrop.
EXCAVATIONS
Access
to the site is from Via Stracina, the continuation of Via Naxos,
or, during opening hours, via the museum in Via Schisò.
The
Archaic settlement, dating from the 7th-6th century BC, was replaced
in the 4th century by a new urban scheme that was laid out on a
rigidly geometrical grid pattern, possibly as a result of a reconstruction
prompted by Hieron of Syracuse. The new city followed the same boundaries
as the earlier; all but the old city walls and the temenos (or sacred
precinct) were removed and replaced by a regular orthogonal street
plan, as advocated by the 5th century BC architect urban planner
Hippodamus of Miletus, with three plateiai (principal avenues –
decumani in Latin: A, B, C, oriented on an east-west axis) intersected
at right angles by an indeterminate number of stenopoi (minor roads
or cardini). From Via Stracina, the road skirts the outer walls
of the ancient city which, pierced by four gateways, are built with
polygonal blocks of lava stone. These incorporate the older walls
of the temenos (late 7th- early 6th centuries BC) which enclose
what now are the ruins of a large temple. Heaps of stones, many
of which from sacred altars, are scattered all across the site.
Nearby sit two kilns: the larger rectangular chamber would have
been used for firing architectural elements in terracotta, while
the smaller round one served in the production of vases and votive
objects.
Skirt
around the kilns and leave the sacred precinct by its northern entrance
(or propylaeum – traces of which are still visible) to emerge
onto plateia B. Follow this broad avenue some distance while surveying
the way in which the separate units or blocks are disposed into
the greater 5th century BC urban scheme; the crossroads are marked
with identical quadrangular stones, which, possibly, once served
as bases to altars. At stenopos 6, turn left towards the museum;
on the left, level with stenopos 11, are the remains of a small
temple from the 7th century BC.
Museo
Archeologico – Via Schisò. Situated along a Bourbon
fortification, the museum houses the relics from the excavations
at the area. On the ground floor is pottery which testifies to the
existence of settlements from Neolithic to the Bronze Age. A fragment
of a bowl inscribed with Stentinello-style decoration (4th-3rd millennium
BC) and other ceramics bearing Cassibile designs (1st millennium
BC) are particularly interesting. A fabulous range of broken cymae
(decorative roof ornaments) painted with animated elements in different
colours and drip-mouldings for channelling rain water, possibly
from Temple B (early 6th century BC), are displayed on the ground
and first floors. Also on the upper level are arranged various examples
of votive objects for hanging on the wall in the shape of a female
breast or face, antefixes (decorative end-pieces) with silenus masks
– testifying to the cult of Dionysus, and a fine altar reconstituted
in 1990 (with one fragment retrieved from Heidelberg). Among the
other exhibits to look out for are the lovely figurine of a veiled
goddess (probably Hera) dated as 5th century BC and a collection
of objects from a surgeon’s tomb including small ointment
jars, a strigil, a specillum – used by doctors to examine
wounds, and a beautiful glass dish probably imported from Egypt
or Mesopotamia. There is also a fine 4th century BC Thracian bronze
helmet and a miniature bust of Athena (5th-6th century AD) used
as a weight for scales. Inside the keep are displayed various objects
found at sea; anchor shafts, amphorae and grindstones.
HISTORICAL
NOTES
Naxos
was founded around 734 BC by Chalcidian colonizers led by Theocles,
at Capo Schisò, a promontory formed originally as a consequence
of a great lava flow. It is the oldest Greek colony in Sicily or
so it is commonly claimed. It derives its name from the Cycladic
island where, according to legend, Dionysus met and then married
Ariadne, after she was abandoned by Theseus. In 729 BC, Theocles
founded the two colonies of Catane and Leontinoi, that lie further
south.
Since
the 5th century BC, Naxos was a major objective for aspiring empire-builders,
notably Hippocrates of Gela and, later, Hieron of Syracuse who,
in 476, evicted the inhabitants of Naxos and deported them to Leontinoi.
Eventually, the support offered by Naxos to the Athenian expedition
against Syracuse (415 BC) led to the demise of the city; in 403
BC Dionysus the Great razed it to the ground leaving the few survived
exiles to found Tauromenion, what is now the enchanting Taormina.
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