ROCCAVALDINA
Roccavaldina
– The main attraction of this little town of the Messina province
is the extraordinary apothecary’s pharmacy which in itself
is quite unique. The shopfront consists of a fine 1500’s Tuscan-style
doorway flanked by a stone counter. Inside, arranged on the fabulous
old wooden shelves, is a rare collection of maiolica drug jars (or
albarello) datable from about 1580. What is particularly interesting
about this collection, is that all the pieces come from the famous
Patanazzi family workshop in Urbino, having been commissioned by
the Messina herbalist Cesare Candia (whose coat of arms, a dove
and three stars on a turquoise background, can be seen on each and
every one of the 238 jars assembled). The collection, acquired from
a priest from Rocca, arrived in town in 1628 and comprises long-necked
vases, small jugs with handle and spout, and albarelli (typical
tall pharmacy jars) bearing scenes from the Bible, Classical mythology
or the history of Ancient Rome. There are two magnificent display
amphorae (note their wonderful handles) decorated in relief with
characteristic grotesque and a narrative panel representing Julius
Caesar receiving Senior Captivi (right) and the contest of Apollo
versus Marsyas who, on losing, was tied to a tree and flayed alive.
Overlooking
the same piazza is the 1500’s castle, a transitional building
between fortress and an aristocratic residence; the massive walls
along the right side are tempered by the elegant balconies and their
voluted brackets.
On
the edge of the town, within the gardens of the former Capuchin
Convent stands a gracious municipal villa, enjoying a panoramic
view over the Milazzo promontory and the fortress of Venetico Superiore
with its four round towers.
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